Who was René-Jules Lalique?
Born in Aÿ-en-Champagne, France, René-Jules Lalique (1860-1945), was a renowned French artist and designer, with innovative designs and meticulous craftsmanship that set him apart as a leading figure in the Art Nouveau movement during the late 19th and early 20th centuries. He left behind a lasting legacy in the world of decorative arts and jewellery, while also capturing the imagination of generations to come.
His creative skills were demonstrated early with his winning a design award for drawing at age 12. In 1876, at 16, Lalique was apprenticed to Louis Aucoc, a leading Parisian jeweller of the time, where he learned the art of jewellery craft and design. At 21, Lalique worked as a freelance designer for several French jewellery firms including Cartier and Boucheron, where he would later would become their rival.
'To seek beauty is a more worthy aim than to display luxury'
Lalique was inspired by the natural world, Japanism, metamorphosis and life in motion. Incorporating insects, flowers and the human form into his designs, which gave his jewellery a magical ethereal quality. The materials he chose to work with, were at the time, unique!
He incorporated many materials into his works that were not widely used in high-end jewellery in the 1800's including glass, horn, pearl, semi-precious stones, enamel, and ivory. His choices were for artistic appearance and not for value, making each piece a genuine work of art that created worldwide interest and high demand.
Credit: Gulbenkian Museum, Dragonfly woman Corsage by René Lalique
1900: THE PARIS UNIVERSAL EXHIBITION
The Dragonfly-Woman brooch (above) captivated audiences at the 1900 Paris Universal Exhibition. Lalique's exhibition stand design was incredible, and nothing like this had been seen before, making this a crowning moment of René Lalique's career as a jeweller.
(Photo credit: artnouveaukathi [IG])
I will bloom again
One of my favourite Lalique pieces is the Hawthorn brooch (circa. 1899). From the window enamelled Plique-a-jour soft green leaves, shimmering white opalescent glass flowers and sparkling diamonds, I've loved it from the moment I read the words scribed on its branch 'Je refleuriray' which is translated to 'I will bloom again'.
There is a very sweet story attached to this lovely brooch.
Part of a married couples private collection, and included in the 'Beyond boundaries' auction held by Christies Geneva in 2017, this brooch was a thoughtful gift from a husband reserved for his wife. Sadly he passed away before he could give the brooch to her. She did eventually receive the gift and discovered the inscription on the branch. I can imagine the words would have been a comfort in such a sad time in her life. The hawthorn tree is a powerful symbol of protection and transformation.
'Beyond boundaries' Lalique hawthorn brooch in enamel, opalescent glass and diamond
More special jewels from the 'Beyond Boundaries' Christies auction
photo credits: Christies
ART NOUVEAU PEARL AND ENAMEL RING, BY RENÉ LALIQUE (Ca. 1900)
GLASS AND SAPPHIRE PENDANT, Depicting three stylised nymphs in opalescent and painted glass, within a calibre-cut sapphire surround, circa 1905
ENAMEL, DIAMOND AND PEARL PENDENT NECKLACE, BY RENÉ LALIQUE
Depicting four gold and enamel wasps with diamond wings, set on a window enamel and opalescent glass hawthorn branch, suspending a baroque pearl, to the chain set with two window enamel leaves, 1899-1901
ART NOUVEAU MOONSTONE, DIAMOND, ENAMEL AND GLASS PENDANT, BY RENÉ LALIQUE Centering a square-cut moonstone, between two opalescent glass carnations with enamel and diamond stems, suspending an oval cabochon moonstone, the chain with diamond accents, 1904-1905
The next chapter: Glass
[Image R. Lalique D'Orsay Rose perfume bottle (1915), Eucalyptus perfume bottle (1919), Three dancing pairs perfume bottle (1912), Kitazawa Museum]
By 1905 Lalique had expanded into creating beautiful glass objects and displayed these along with his jewellery in his French Vendôme store. Perfumer François Coty was so impressed by Lalique's designs, he asked him to create perfume bottles with him. This collaboration entered Lalique into the world of perfumery, and changed the industry by creating perfume bottles that were as beautiful on the outside as the perfumes they held within. These perfume bottles became affordable pieces of art glass, that is still revered and collected today.
After working with glass for several years, Lalique opened his first glassmaking workshop. He founded the Verrerie d’Alsace glassworks at Wingen-sur-Moder in Alsace, at the heart of a region with a strong and historic glassmaking tradition. This is now the world’s only Lalique factory.
He developed his techniques and style as a glassmaker over the next 20 years, most notably the contrast between frosted and clear glass.
photo credit: toomeyco.com
Legacy
Lalique's ability to adapt and master new materials and translate this over the Art Nouveau and Art Deco movements was genius. His achievements and contributions to the jewellery, glassmaker and interior design industries are on a grand scale.
After Lalique's death in 1945, his son Marc became head of the business and focused on Crystal development and designs.
In 1977 Marc’s daughter Marie-Claude Lalique 'The Queen of Crystal' became the CEO of the company. She believed that art should be a celebration of life and that everyone should have the opportunity to experience its magic, so she opened her studio to budding artists, sharing her knowledge and joy of glassmaking.
From 2008, Lalique group focused on increasing the production capacity of crystal glassworks, and in the years that followed, modernisation of the Lalique factory was undertaken.
The Lalique museum opened in Wingen-sur-Moder in 2011. Also Lalique art was launched to share expertise with prominent contemporary artists, foundations and talented designers to create unique and outstanding works of art.
Rene Lalique left a legacy that has inspired many generations, and many more to come, adding so much beauty to this world.